Toronto-Winnipeg on VIA Train # 1, the Canadian

VIA Rail’s Train # 1 operates with classic single-level equipment built back in the 50’s — completely refurbished, of course –- and it’s always a thrill to walk out onto the platform and see those stainless steel beauties standing there, waiting for you.

I was in a roomette, which is compact, although a bit larger than comparable accommodations in an Amtrak Superliner, but very well laid out. There is a small wash basin, a toilet and one plush sofa-type seat. Unlike Amtrak roomettes, these compartments are designed for just one person. The bunk folds down from the wall behind the seat and pretty much fills the room, locking in place and making the little toilet inaccessible. (If, like me, you often need to use the facilities during the night, no big deal … it’s easy to simply release the latch and raise the bunk.)

Meals on board VIA’s train # 1 are very enjoyable. The food is excellent, the service is very good and, of course, each meal is an opportunity to meet interesting and delightful people.

* A Scottish couple from Edinburough, who offered their spare bedroom should I ever decide to visit

* A husband and wife who raise dairy cows in Switzerland

* A Danish man with hilarious stories about his hot-tempered Italian wife (safely back in Italy)

* A daughter and her elderly-but-feisty mother from Dawson Creek, 750 miles north of Vancouver in what I gather is a somewhat remote area, judging from the old lady’s story about indignantly fending off a marauding wolf with an axe handle

* And a stereotypical little old lady, in delightful good humor, who appeared for breakfast on both mornings in a pink bathrobe and fluffy bedroom slippers. Somehow, in the genial atmosphere of the dining car, it seemed perfectly acceptable.

Winnipeg – where I am at the moment – is quite chilly, although I have seen a number of the locals ambling around in short-sleeved shirts. My hotel is quite centrally located and I attended a hockey game last night at the local arena which is, happily, just a few blocks away. (The home-town Manitoba Moose defeated the Hamilton Bulldogs, 4-3 in overtime, before what can best be described as an “enthusiastic” crowd.)

At the other end of the cultural spectrum is the local art museum, which is also within walking distance from my hotel. That will have to wait until tomorrow, however. This afternoon I will be seeking out a used-clothing store called Value Village, where I will buy used and hopefully inexpensive heavy shirts, a parka, pants and boots to keep me warm during my three days in Churchill … 1050 miles by train almost due north from here and on the shores of Hudson Bay. The Swiss people I met on the train are also making the trip to Churchill, but they’re flying – three hours over the tundra in a small plane. Thank you, no.