Yeah, the European Trains Are Great, But …
I had two overnight train rides on my recent trip – from Paris to Hamburg en route to Copenhagen and from Copenhagen to Cologne on the return. Both were on a City Night Line train. Both were disappointing.
Accommodations were acceptable, if rather drab. But the combination bathroom/shower was a marvel of efficiency and design. Quite luxurious, actually.
However, while both departures on the overnight journeys were around the dinner hour, there was no dining car on either train. The first train left Paris at 8:00 p.m., and the return overnighter departed from Copenhagen at 6:45. Good heavens! That’s right in the middle of the European dinner hour. Good thing I asked. I had to grab a bite at the station before boarding.
Breakfast was served on board the next morning: it came in a cardboard box handed to each passenger by the car attendant. I ate some of it. There was orange juice in a waxed box the size of a deck of cards, a croissant that was not much bigger than a roll of quarters, and a pinkish, pasty substance in a plastic cup that smelled vaguely of liverwurst. It was pretty meager.
We constantly hear about the vaunted European rail system, and God knows, compared to what we have in the U.S. it is miraculous. Europeans can go from anywhere to anywhere by train, quickly, efficiently and affordably.
But when it comes to overnighttrain travel – certainly when compared to my two recent experiences –Amtrak really does an excellent job: we get comfortable accommodations, good service and good food in the dining car.
Oh, yes … and on the Coast Starlight, before going into the dining car for a good, hot breakfast, we can have a freshly made Bloody Mary in the Pacific Parlour Car. Let’s see if the Europeans can top that!
Both were on a City Night Line train. Both were disappointing. http://www.privatecarserviceparis.com/
As you said, European trains are for relatively short distances in general. Very few trains take more than 12 hours, and most night trains are just for the night, as you arrive before breakfast time, quite often.
Unfortunately, they’re disappearing, more and more, they’re being replaced by TGV’s and other day trains, and you are supposed to change a lot more. But then again, so often you can do so easily, as trains will be more punctual and more frequent.
I have been charged by Amtrak
Emeryville to Denver on June 5
Senior Rail Fare $116.45
Superliner Roomette $519.00
Yes, understood. I was merely trying to point out that Amtrak’s long-distance service is really quite good.
Your comment that you’re paying more for the one night trip from Emeryville to Denver than five nights in a Manhattan apartment doesn’t compute. I randomly checked for the most popular times and the fare for a roomette for that trip was around $428, a bit less for a senior or if you’re eligible for one of the other discounts. And remember: that includes at least four meals.
Today, in Amtrak dining cars, it’s appropriate to tip based on the cost of your meal as shown on the menu. Many sleeping car passengers do not tip because their meals are included in their fares and that’s deplorable. Besides, the US government assumes the staff is being tipped and they pay income tax accordingly. So be generous assuming the service is good. It’s a tough job and the hours are very long: usually 6:00 a.m. to well after 9:00 p.m.
You are really comparing different distances and cultures. Back in the 70’s I use to travel overnight in Europe in couchettes (4, often strangers, in 1st class, 6 in 2nd class) where you were given a pillow and blanket and just took off your shoes. It was a great way to save accomodation costs and led to often interesting meetings but I am past that now. Even then the guide books pointed out that the best European trains were daylight hours only. Last year I tried to book overnight Milan to Paris but could not get a single compartment so travelled on TGV the next day roughly 9am to 3.30pm and some nice scenery. In 2011 I travelled overnight from Paris to Northern Portugal. It was a TGV to Spanish border but then I had a single compartment with private shower and a very good meal was served although after 10pm but that is Spain.
Next year I will have 5 nights on Amtrak trains and I am looking forward to them. However the costs are horrendous. I am spending more for the journey from Emeryville to Denver than 5 nights in a very nice apartment in upper Manhattan. Like most Europeans, I will not want a hot breakfast so that will be wasted on me. While I love a good wine and occasionally a beer, I never drink spirits and have never tasted a bloody mary. By the way back in 99 you use to leave a $1 tip for the dining car attendant. I guess that is higher now? In Europe, NZ and Australia we rarely tip.