How Best to Contemplate the 800-Year-Old Heart of Chartres.
Unfortunately, being Monday also means there are only a very few tours of the massive and magnificent 12th century gothic cathedral being offered. I did see a group being led around by a guide, but he was speaking in French. Really, that’s OK. Most of these guides flood you with names and dates and facts and figures and, at the end of the day you’re left with an overall but blurry impression. At least some of the time, you’re probably better off on your own and getting a sense of the place with an overall impression. That’s how I “toured” le Cathédral de Notre-Dame today.
The rest of my time was spent strolling around the old town, stopping along the way at convenient benches to let the sights and sounds of this medieval town soak in, even on a relatively quiet Monday. I did find a restaurant open and had a bite of lunch and a glass of wine at an outdoor table.
Once again I was struck by the French penchant for much more formal landscaping designs than we’re used to seeing. They plant trees in long rows lining both sides of country roads or, as was done here behind the cathedral, identical trees line a gravel pathway down the middle of a 500-year-old courtyard. It is serene and quite lovely.
Le Grand Monarque is an old building and here and there are signs of things needing a little work. A drain in my bathroom sink that gurgles noisily, for example. But the hotel still manages to be classy, has a first rate restaurant, and is wonderfully French. By that I mean the guest rooms are typically small, the decor is typically “big”, and the ascenseur (elevator) is typically tiny — only room for me and my one small rolling bag. When I checked in, the bellman set my bag inside the elevator, ushered me in, and waited for the door to close. When the door slid open on the 2nd floor, there he was waiting to greet me. Not even out of breath.
Bonjour JIM,
My name is David, 34 years old and like you I love to travel… I just found your blog after having googled ” Southwest chief-travel-train”. I am not a rail enthusiast initially but I must admit that trains are part of my life cause I am taking them everyday to go to work in Paris.
My last visit in America was New York in April. During the past three years, I also visited San Francisco, Yosemite Park, Florida (Miami-Orlando-Everglades-Key West)… BUT never took the train in the US and to be honest it never came to my mind. Like you, I experienced the Shinkansen in Japan and of course our french TGV.
Here in France, we have a TV show called “Des trains pas comme les autres” entirely dedicated to the best rail-travels around the world. Two weeks ago, the show was about the Southwest Chief from Chicago to Los Angeles. Amazing landscapes and what a thrill !
So I decided my next trip to the US, probably in 2014, will include a “voyage en train”. Thanx to you and your perfect blog, I discovered the different Amtrak lines and you made me travelling without moving. Just brilliant !
The other reason why I decided to write to you is that I was pleasantly surprised to read your article about Chartres. I lived two years in Chartres near the wonderful cathedral. I found it very interesting and funny to read your experience in this lovely little town and with the elevator at Le Grand Monarque.
Now I live in Rambouillet, a small town between Chartres and Paris, closer to Versailles too. No cathedral in Rambouillet but the presidential castle is well worth making your way up to there.
Sunday, I will take the Eurostar to London for the fist time. Can’t wait :-)
I will certainly keep an eye on your blog !
Best regards,
David