Around the U.S. By Train – Part 12
Departing East Glacier, the Empire Builder burrows deeper into the Rockies. In the lounge car, passengers are craning their necks for better looks at the snow-capped peaks on either side of the train. Suddenly one blurts out, “Moose … moose … moose!” and, sure enough, several hundred yards off to the left is a moose, standing knee deep in a small lake and staring placidly at us as we pass.
We’re climbing steadily now, the twin locomotives laboring as we thread our way through these high mountain passes. The roadbed is banked around the many curves, causing the train to tilt first left then right. That side-to-side movement generates the creaking and groaning sounds that are totally unique to rail cars. I confess: it’s music to my ears.
A half hour later, the Empire Builder rolls past the Isaac Walton Inn in Essex, Montana. This is a favorite spot for train enthusiasts because the hotel and restaurant are located less than a hundred yards from the BNSF main line and there is a lot of freight traffic here. As always, a half dozen people are waiting to photographs us as we go by, squinting through the view finders or hunched over their tripods.
Two years ago, when my wife and I were planning a three-night visit to Glacier Park. I suggested it might be fun to spend one night here in Essex at the Isaac Walton Inn. We had a rather brief discussion about that idea:
She: “How often do the trains go by?”
Me: “About every thirty minutes.”
She (alarmed): “All night?”
Me: “All night.”
We spent all three nights back in East Glacier at the Glacier Park Lodge. Surprised?
This stretch of the Empire Builder’s route – from East Glacier until darkness falls – is one of the most scenic of all the options Amtrak offers. The train runs along ledges cut into the sides of forested mountains, ducking into tunnels and crossing numerous trestles with icy streams tumbling and foaming over rocks and boulders far below. It’s a pity passengers don’t get to see more of this glorious country during daylight hours, but a schedule adjustment here would mean inconvenient departure and arrival times in Chicago and in Seattle.
Dinner is a flatiron steak, grilled medium rare, with a baked potato and green vegetables, all accompanied by a half-bottle of merlot.
And so to bed.
