The Running of the … Dogs, in Churchill
To use an apt Hawaiian-pidgin expression, it’s freeze-ass cold in Churchill on my second day, with temperatures in the 20s and a vicious wind blowing in off of Hudson Bay. Weather reports say snow is on the way, but there is none on the ground now and the dozen visitors who have come for a dog sled ride will have to settle for the wheeled version.
Gerald and Jenafor Azure, co-proprietors of the Bluesky Bed & Sled in Churchill, have 21 sled dogs. Can you imagine looking after that many animals? And let me assure you, these dogs (both male and female) get very special treatment.
And they love to run! From the moment cars begin pulling up to their compound, they are yipping and yapping and jumping around excitedly … ready and eager to go.
All are mixed breed, many (probably most, from the looks of them) with a generous part Siberian Husky, the tip-off being the characteristic blue eyes.
Visitors are already waddling around in heavy parkas, windproof pants and boots. Two at a time they’re bundled into one of two wheeled carts and draped in a heavy blanket as the dogs are being selected and hooked into their harnesses.
Visitors are already waddling around in heavy parkas, windproof pants and boots. Two at a time they’re bundled into one of two wheeled carts and draped in a heavy blanket as the dogs are being selected and hooked into their harnesses.
Interestingly, there are no reins or other manual restraints on these dogs. They are controlled only by shouted voice commands from Gerald: GEE to turn right; HAW to turn left. I ask Gerald how he stops his team. “I holler WHOA”, he says, “and step hard on the brake.” Then, after a pause, he grins and adds, “Most of the time that works pretty good.”
Then …they’re off! Two eight-dog teams pulling and straining as the carts, each carrying two people plus Gerald and another musher, gather momentum, then disappear down the dirt road at an astonishing speed. Minutes later, back they come, still running flat out until reluctantly being brought to a stop when the next two passengers are waiting for their turn.
Then …they’re off! Two eight-dog teams pulling and straining as the carts, each carrying two people plus Gerald and another musher, gather momentum, then disappear down the dirt road at an astonishing speed. Minutes later, back they come, still running flat out until reluctantly being brought to a stop when the next two passengers are waiting for their turn. Gerald helps a couple from South Dakota off of his sled. The woman can barely speak from the cold, but her eyes are shining. “Amazing,” she gasps. “Absolutely amazing.”
Tomorrow I will be off in search of polar bears.
